Viceroy Bali

We're a family of three — my wife, our five-year-old son, and me — and we spent two nights here as part of a longer trip around Bali. I'll admit I've always defaulted to the big international chains and rarely sought out smaller independent properties. This stay has changed that.

The hardware is genuinely excellent, and the staff were warm and attentive throughout.

We were kindly upgraded to a Terrace Villa, which was wonderfully spacious and comfortable. The private pool was a hit — our son barely got out of it. One evening we ordered in-villa dining and ate in the gazebo, looking out over the valley. The food was delicious, the setting was beautiful, and the whole evening was, honestly, magical. All three of us were reluctant to leave when the time came.

Dinner at CasCades was another highlight. The bruschetta, made with tomatoes grown on the property, was exceptional — one of the best things we ate anywhere in Bali. The ribeye was good as well.

Two things fell short of the rest.

The breakfast buffet was limited in selection and not especially good, which felt out of step with the standard of everything else.

The other was check-in. When I booked several months ago, a system limitation meant the reservation went through as two adults. I contacted the hotel by email, asked to add our son, and received written confirmation that he would stay free of charge and that his breakfast would be complimentary. In the days before arrival, we exchanged several further emails covering pre-arrival requests.

At check-in, none of it had been recorded. Asked how many were in our party, I said two adults and a child — the reply was "but you booked for two adults only." I explained I had confirmation by email; there was no acknowledgement, and we simply moved on. I was then told breakfast was complimentary for two adults. When I showed the email confirming our son's breakfast, the response was that two adult breakfasts are free, and the child is only free if he shares from his parents' plates.

In the end we had no trouble at breakfast. But after securing written confirmation well in advance, standing at the desk feeling as though I were pleading for my child's stay and his breakfast was not how I'd hoped to begin.

That aside, every other member of staff was genuinely lovely, and the pre-arrival correspondence had been thoughtful and prompt. It was one isolated hiccup in what was otherwise an outstanding stay — and one we would very much like to repeat.

If I could give this place 6 stars, I would. Patrick is doing a great job running this gem. There's something enchanting about soaking in a heated terrace pool as the day turns in, watching the wall of trees on the other side of the ravine and listening to the sounds of nature while sipping a drink.

Been to this place twice already, every time mightily impressed with the staff's training, level of service, the quality of villas and the relaxation you get. Food is another subject for discission in its own right - from elaborate breakfasts to dinners at Aperitif, it's what you'd expect from "upscale".

Look, OBVIOUSLY, it's expensive, but even if you come here for a couple of nights "just for experience", I guarantee you'll remember how relaxed you felt for a long time.